Dom Bliskowice

Bliskowice is a village on the Vistula, in the gorge the region is named for. The slopes are loess over limestone, cut by ravines, and the gorge has become a centre for natural wine: small estates, native yeast, little or nothing added.

The estate's 4.5 hectares are farmed with as little intervention as each season allows, which on the Vistula is not the same every year. Loess holds water and warms quickly, so the grapes ripen early and soft; the limestone beneath gives them a backbone. Solaris, Regent and Rondo, grapes bred for cold and for resistance to disease, make that kind of farming possible.

In the cellar the whites go on their skins and every wine is bottled unfined. The Solaris comes out gold and gently tannic. The pét-nat is bottled before its ferment finishes and comes out pink, cloudy and dry. Both are wines for the table, and both change from one vintage to the next, which is the point.